Popular Design for aluminim strip for water pipe for Monaco Manufacturer

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"Quality first, Honesty as base, Sincere service and mutual profit" is our idea, in order to develop continuously and pursue the excellence for Popular Design for aluminim strip for water pipe for Monaco Manufacturer, We also ensure that your selection will be crafted with the highest quality and reliability. Please feel free to contact us for further information.

Aluminium strip for water pipe is our star product,which widely used for cold water pipe,hot water pipe,5 layer pipes,

aluminium plastic composite pipe, PPR-Al-PPR pipe, PEX-Al-PEX pipe



Thickness:0.15mm to 0.55mm

Width:48mm to 500mm

Surface:Degreased ,after cleaning


Tensile Strength:85-130MPA

Elongation:Min 22%

ID:55MM, 75MM,152MM


Packing:Exporting seaworthy cases

Hangzhou Jinding Aluminium Inudustry Co., Ltd and Zhejiang Shuanglin Jiate Metal Technology Co., ltd are

professional aluminium strip manufacture.Our aluminum strip exporting regularly quantity to Iran, Asia,Europe,

Africa ,ETC. Jinding is a famous brand for aluminium strip in many countries due to our stable good quality,packing

and service!

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  • In this episode of the Longevity Learning Lab, we show the differences between MIG welding with GAS and MIG welding without GAS. Check it out.

    Some Info on Welding:

    How to weld with flux cored wire
    Flux cored is an economical way to weld mild steel if the welder is used only occasionally. Apart from that it’s only real advantage over mild steel wire with shielding gas is that it can be used outside in moderate wind conditions.
    It is difficult to use while learning MIG welding as the smoke and flux make it difficult to see what’s going on. Also the flux doesn’t conduct electricity so you have to be careful not to weld over the same piece twice once it’s cooled.
    Welding without gas
    Where ordinary mild steel mig welding wire needs an inert gas shield to prevent it from oxidising when melted, gasless MIG wire has a flux core which forms the shield around the weld to keep oxygen out.
    It’s the flux that causes all the weld spatter in the photo and the light coloured crust (slag) on top of the weld.

    The slag is easy to remove with a wire brush (apart from around the very edge of the weld), and the resulting weld is reasonably neat.

    Immediately after the weld is applied a protective coating of slag bubbles up, which means you can’t actually see what the weld pool is doing. That’s a big downside of gasless welding. In ordinary gas shielded welding you can adjust speed and technique depending on what the weld pool is doing.
    My approach was practice on some scrap to get the settings right, then weld consistently and hope for the best.
    The arc seems brighter than for mild steel welding and the weld spatters and gives off white smoke.
    A flat zigzag torch movement pulling the torch seems to work well with flux cored wire. It prevents the arc dipping back too much into the cooling weld pool (the slag would stop the arc).
    The arc is otherwise very stable, but the slag does not conduct so any tack welds would also need to be cleaned up before welding.

    The advantage of gasless (other than saving on gas bottle rental) is the ability to weld in windy conditions.
    I tried it outside in a gusty wind, and as the photo shows the weld turned out just as good as the one I did inside. Normal gas shielded welding would have struggled in the slightest breeze.

    Welder polarity
    The welder should be set up with a positive earth and negative electrode for gasless welding. This is supposed to put more power into melting the wire. I tried welding with the wrong polarity and it seemed to work just as well, though others have reported a huge difference.
    Cored wires that have nothing to do with gasless
    There are two other types of cored wire that shouldn’t be confused with gasless. The first is “dual shield” sometimes used on very thick metal for improved weld toughness. It doesn’t have enough gasless flux to shield the weld so is used with shielding gas. The second odd type is “metal cored” wire which is filled with ground metals that can be tuned to give all sorts of properties, again requiring a gas shield.

    Link to product: http://www.longevity-inc.com/mig-welders/migweld-140

    This is a work in process, and is definitely in need of some refinement, but as it sits it does work.
    I got into beekeeping for sustainability aspects, so the idea of buying rolled beeswax foundation from an out of state supplier bothers me. But, since it takes around 8 pounds of honey to make a pound of wax, if you want to produce honey you really need to use foundation sheets and reuse your comb as much as practical.

    The foundation is simply a sheet of beeswax that is embossed with the shape of the comb. Normally wax sheets are rolled flat in large steel rollers, and then rolled through rollers with the cell shape negatively embossed. Rolling the wax aligns the crystals in the wax so that it is not as brittle as sheets that are formed from dipping forms in melted wax.

    When researching the idea of making homemade beeswax foundation , I quickly saw that with only 5 or so hives a 3 to 5 thousand dollar embossing machine would not work. I did find a website that talked about making dipped wax sheets by dipping a metal or plastic sheet in hot wax several times, dipping in cold water, and peeling the sheet off the metal.

    While this works, the sheet is brittle and you get a lot of breakage as you peel it off.

    I wanted a mold. In some bee supply catalogs I saw silicon molds but they were $500.00 and they were for commercial sized bees. I run the natural 4.9 small cell bees, so if I wanted a mold I would have to do it myself.

    What I did was make two mold boxes from scrap wood, and then glued a piece of small cell foundation in the center of each box. Remember that each side is different so ensure that you have each side represented.

    I used tape to build up the edges so that when I poured in the silicon it would make a flat sheet.

    Next I painted over the foundation and mold box with a silicon release agent.

    I used OOMOO30 from smooth-on and used the sample sized kit linked to at the bottom of this article.

    This silicon was very easy to use, I simply poured equal amounts of the yellow bottle (red liquid) with the contents of the blue bottle (grey blue liquid) and mixed thoroughly until mix was a uniform light purplish blue. Use something disposable as it is very hard to clean after mixed.

    I then poured the liquid into each mold box and let set.

    Once the silicon hardened (6-8 hours) I carefully pulled the silicon mold out of each box.

    I took the two silicon sheets and screwed them together to make the completed mold.

    I also placed the bottom sheet on a board to give some structure to the mold.

    I could have saved some silicon if I had made the sheets thinner, but I made them thick in the hopes of getting more use out of them. I also hope the extra weight helps spread the liquid wax more evenly.

    Stay tuned as we will soon show you how to make foundation using this mold.

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