factory low price anodized aluminum sheet/Coil to Palestine Manufacturer
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anodized aluminum sheet/Coil
|anodized aluminum sheet/Coil|
|A1050,A1060, A1070,A1100||0.2-100||20-2200||20-8000||O,H12,H22,H14,H16,H18, H24,H26,etc|
|A5052 ,A5005,A5083,A5754||0.2-100||20-2200||20-8000||O,H18,H24,H32,H34,H111,H112 ,etc|
|Packing : Export wooden pallets.|
|Standards:ASTM-B209. EN573-1, GB/T3880.1-2006|
|Quality of material: totally free from defects like white rust, oil patches, roll marks, edge damage, camber, dents, holes, break lines, scratches and free from coil set|
|Application : Mainly used insigns, billboards, building exterior decoration, bus body, high-rise buildings and factories wall decoration, kitchen sink, lamp, fan leaves, with pieces of electronic, chemical equipment, sheet metal processing parts, deep drawing or spinning hollowware, welding parts, heat exchangers, bell surface and disk, plate, kitchenware, decorations, reflective devices, ect|
♦ alloy: :1060,1200,1100,3003,3004 etc.
♦ SGS & ISO
♦ Length: according to your requirements
The features of the anodized aluminum sheet
1. It is very glorious of the anodized aluminum sheet/coil which can be making the products more and more beautiful.
2. The anodized aluminum sheet can save so much time and save so many proceeds from the anodized aluminum sheets.
3. After anodized, the products are very clean also antifungal for the aluminum coil.
4. Anodizing aluminum can be used for so many industries such as the kitchens, Airplanes, Constructions, Electronic, Packing, Etc.
5. After anodized, it will be different kind’s surface and different colors for choosing.
6. Different surface for the anodized aluminum sheet, with different usage.
I will demonstrate how it’s possible (step by step) to get a Super Hi Gloss PAINT FINISH using RustOleum Oil based paint. It’s a little bit of work however the end result is stunning.
So with out any further delay let’s jump right in.
The first thing that needs to be done after the area you desire to paint is prepped and taped off with paper/masking tape is to gather your supplies. You will need Rustoleum Oil Based gloss paint.(Has to be oil based) This can be purchased from most hardware stores for about $10 a quart or $30 a gallon. You will need a small bottle of Mineral Spirits from that same hardware store, also is about $10 a quart OR $20 a gallon. You will need a few QUALITY paint brushes (HARBOR FREIGHT HAS GREAT BRUSHES FOR CHEAP FYI ) OR try a 5 pack of 4 inch Ultra-dense foam roller’s for about $9 bucks. You might want to experiment with what works good for you. If you’re painting a car/boat then the foam roller’s might be the way to go. IF YOU CAN Spray using a HVLP GUN, then go that route, its simple to do and by far the easiest. Spray a test piece before you spray the area you desire to paint to adjust the flare and pressure & remember a bunch of light coats is BEST to build up the paint rather than a few thick coats.(THAT’S WHY WE THIN IT DOWN SO MUCH)
OKAY Now lets get to the basics. First stir your paint thoroughly & find a container to work out of (I used a old glass dill relish jar) Try to only mix what you will need for 1 day. Add roughly 40% mineral spirits to the container & 60% Rustoleum paint and mix that real good. (1/3 mineral s. & 2/3 paint is fine for a bit thicker mix). Pre Wipe the area that is getting painted using a clean rag & mineral spirits to ensure there isn’t any wax or dust on the surface. Dip your brush (if that’s what you’re using) in mineral spirits 20% of the way down then flick the brush to remove most of the liquid from the brush and now you’re ready to go. ( if using a roller then moisten the foam with mineral spirits)
Now that you’re ready to go keep in mind that no matter what happens from here on out can always be redone & fixed if things don’t work out. It took me 6 weeks to paint a boat back in ’09 because of the learning curve but it finally came out SWEET with out any orange peel (looks like fish scales in the finish) & after I tried to use a hi density foam roller I figured out spraying was the easiest way to accomplish the results I desired. WOW, That was a lot of work. As you can see I still use a brush because it’s so easy to work with & This was a small project anyway.
So just like I mention in the video when you begin working with the paint spread the paint around (doing a small area at a time) and then begin working the paint (what I refer to as combing your paint) On a edge either paint towards the edge and fall off or when painting away from a edge begin the stroke 1/4″ from the edge & follow up by doing the reverse & paint off the edge. Vertical surfaces are some what difficult because the paint wants to run. Just remember you have a 4-5 minute work time with this method so always watch what you painted a few minutes prior to what you are currently doing and simply go back & repaint/remove the run. Also I haven’t gotten to that yet but any paint runs will be wet sanded out. So let’s get to the method.
Apply 4 light coats of paint (WAITING HOURS INBETWEEN COATS) then wet sand using 600 grit.(IT MAY TAKE A FEW COATS TO GET A SOLID COVERAGE) Apply 4 more coats then wet sand using 800 grit. Apply 4 more coats then wet sand using 1000 grit. If it looks good then polish the areas with turtle wax brand POLISHING COMPOUND in the green container ( NO WAX YET) Wait for a few weeks to cure then wax all your paint using whatever wax you have on hand or use turtle wax. You can get a polishing pad for a drill motor for about $7, see my next video for the polish & waxing demonstration.
Hope this was helpful & feel free to shoot me any questions/ comments & perhaps tips & pointers. I’m always open to hear a new idea. Remember i’m not exactly a paid pro painter.
Jinan JMD Machinery Co.,Ltd.
Aluminum/Timber Window Door Machine Manufacturer