Factory Cheap 1000 Series Aluminum Plate for Swiss Factories
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1000 series aluminum plate
Delivery time: about 30 days after deposit
Payment term: T/T or irrevocable L/C at sight
Supply ablity: 15000MT/Month
Packaging: Export standard packing,wooden pallet
What is COIL COATING? What does COIL COATING mean? COIL COATING meaning – COIL COATING definition – COIL COATING explanation.
Source: Wikipedia.org article, adapted under https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/ license.
Coil coating is the continuous and highly automated industrial process for efficiently coating coils of metal. Because the metal is treated before it is cut and formed, the entire surface is cleaned and treated, providing tightly-bonded finishes. (Formed parts can have many holes, recessed areas, valleys, and hidden areas that make it difficult to clean and uniformly paint.) Coil coated metal (often called prepainted metal) is often considered more durable and more corrosion-resistant than most post painted metal.
Annually, 4.5 million tons of coil coated steel and aluminum are produced and shipped in North America, and 5 million tons in Europe. In almost every five-year period since the early 1980s, the growth rate of coil coated metal has exceeded the growth rates of either steel and/or aluminum production.
The definition of a coil coating process according to EN 10169 : 2010 is a ‘process in which an (organic) coating material is applied on rolled metal strip in a continuous process which includes cleaning, if necessary, and chemical pre-treatment of the metal surface and either one-side or two-side, single or multiple application of (liquid) paints or coating powders which are subsequently cured or/and laminating with permanent plastic films’.
The metal substrate (steel or aluminum) is delivered in coil form from the rolling mills. Coil weights vary from 5-6 tons for aluminum and up to about 25 tons for steel. The coil is positioned at the beginning of the line, then unwound at a constant speed, passing through the various pre-treatment and coating processes before being recoiled. Two strip accumulators at the beginning and the end of the line enable the work to be continuous, allowing new coils to be added (and finished coils removed) by a metal stitching process without having to slow down or stop the line.
Available coatings include polyesters, plastisols, polyurethanes, polyvinylidene fluorides (PVDF), epoxies, primers, backing coats and laminate films. For each product, the coating is built up in a number of layers.
Primer coatings form the essential link between the pretreatment and the finish coating. Essentially, a primer is required to provide inter-coat adhesion between the pretreatment and the finish coat and is also required to promote corrosion resistance in the total system. The composition of the primer will vary depending on the type of finish coat used. Primers require compatibility with various pretreatments and top coat paint systems; therefore, they usually comprise a mixture of resin systems to achieve this end.
Backing coats are applied to the underside of the strip with or without a primer. The coating is generally not as thick as the finish coating used for exterior applications. Backing coats are generally not exposed to corrosive environments and not visible in the end application.
Prepainted metal is used in a variety of products. It can be formed for many different applications, including those with T bends, without loss of coating quality. Major industries use prepainted metal in products such as building panels, metal roofs wall panels, garage doors, office furniture (desks, cubicle divider panels, file cabinets, and modular cabinets), home appliances (refrigerators, dishwashers, freezers, range hoods, microwave ovens, and washers and dryers), heating and air-conditioning outer panels and ductwork, commercial appliances, vending machines, foodservice equipment and cooking tins, beverage cans, and automotive panels and parts (fuel tanks, body panels, bumpers), The list continues to grow, with new industries making the switch from post-painted to prepainted processes each year.
This is a work in process, and is definitely in need of some refinement, but as it sits it does work.
I got into beekeeping for sustainability aspects, so the idea of buying rolled beeswax foundation from an out of state supplier bothers me. But, since it takes around 8 pounds of honey to make a pound of wax, if you want to produce honey you really need to use foundation sheets and reuse your comb as much as practical.
The foundation is simply a sheet of beeswax that is embossed with the shape of the comb. Normally wax sheets are rolled flat in large steel rollers, and then rolled through rollers with the cell shape negatively embossed. Rolling the wax aligns the crystals in the wax so that it is not as brittle as sheets that are formed from dipping forms in melted wax.
When researching the idea of making homemade beeswax foundation , I quickly saw that with only 5 or so hives a 3 to 5 thousand dollar embossing machine would not work. I did find a website that talked about making dipped wax sheets by dipping a metal or plastic sheet in hot wax several times, dipping in cold water, and peeling the sheet off the metal.
While this works, the sheet is brittle and you get a lot of breakage as you peel it off.
I wanted a mold. In some bee supply catalogs I saw silicon molds but they were $500.00 and they were for commercial sized bees. I run the natural 4.9 small cell bees, so if I wanted a mold I would have to do it myself.
What I did was make two mold boxes from scrap wood, and then glued a piece of small cell foundation in the center of each box. Remember that each side is different so ensure that you have each side represented.
I used tape to build up the edges so that when I poured in the silicon it would make a flat sheet.
Next I painted over the foundation and mold box with a silicon release agent.
I used OOMOO30 from smooth-on and used the sample sized kit linked to at the bottom of this article.
This silicon was very easy to use, I simply poured equal amounts of the yellow bottle (red liquid) with the contents of the blue bottle (grey blue liquid) and mixed thoroughly until mix was a uniform light purplish blue. Use something disposable as it is very hard to clean after mixed.
I then poured the liquid into each mold box and let set.
Once the silicon hardened (6-8 hours) I carefully pulled the silicon mold out of each box.
I took the two silicon sheets and screwed them together to make the completed mold.
I also placed the bottom sheet on a board to give some structure to the mold.
I could have saved some silicon if I had made the sheets thinner, but I made them thick in the hopes of getting more use out of them. I also hope the extra weight helps spread the liquid wax more evenly.
Stay tuned as we will soon show you how to make foundation using this mold.